Blush is trending on TikTok, but not in the way you might think. Over the long weekend, a conversation arose regarding the launch of a new product from Patrick Ta Beauty, but the chatter wasn’t just about what we put on our cheeks—it has also raised questions about viral influence and who gets credit (and cash!) for beauty trends.
There are two makeup artists at the center of this conversation: Ngozi Esther Edeme, also known as Painted by Esther, a makeup artist who has worked with megastars like Naomi Campbell, Tyla, Kelly Rowland, and Love Island breakout star Olandria Carthen; and Patrick Ta, a makeup artist who launched his own beauty brand, Patrick Ta Beauty, in 2019 and has worked with stars like Gigi Hadid and Shay Mitchell.
The controversy centers on a specific makeup technique: transitional blush. Edeme has made the look her signature; it’s all about strategic placements and layering cream blush, concealer and color correctors, and pink powder (applied with a powder puff) for a seamless color gradient from the under eye down to the cheek. The technique went viral, especially after Edeme teamed up with Carthen; it was bold, playful, and looked particularly stunning on Black women and darker skin tones, and thus quickly became associated with Edeme and her work.
For his part, Ta was also using the transitional blush technique on celebrity clients like Maura Higgins, but it wasn’t until he debuted a line of Transition Blurring Blush Duos—and an accompanying Transition Blush Brush—that makeup fans started talking on TikTok, Reddit, and Instagram Reels. Many people felt like Ta was ripping off Edeme’s technique and capitalizing on it as his own, especially by trademarking the words “transition blush” and by using words like “created” to describe the technique, thus raising concerns about who can claim—and often, profit from—techniques and trends.
Many beauty fans have shared their thoughts all over social media, including on Patrick Ta Beauty’s Instagram, with some criticizing his lack of credit to Painted by Esther and accusing Ta of “stealing” said technique from her. Others have criticized Ta and his brand for creating new products to capitalize on the popularity of the transitional blush look when it can easily be replicated with items people already have in their makeup bag. “The over consumption of products is insane. Give @paintedbyesther her credit. You don’t need another blush palette to achieve this. FFS,” wrote one.
On the flip side, others have pointed out that neither Ta nor Edeme created the transitional blush look, which is true. It is commonly used by makeup artists for a bright, lifted look and has roots in Asian beauty, particularly in Korea and Japan. In the 1970s, makeup artist Way Bandy popularized the look in the United States with what he called “blush draping” and it has also gone by terms like “gradient blush” or “ombré blush,” among others. (We reported on a resurgence of the trend back in 2016). The legendary late makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin was also a fan of the technique.
But it’s also important to note that Edeme has never claimed to have invented the transitional blush technique; she is quick to credit other artists for inspiring her work. She directly addressed the controversy in a TikTok video on May 24, saying she was nervous about speaking up but wanted to stand up for herself. In the video, Edeme stressed that she did not create the transitional blush technique and does not want people to think she is trying to take ownership of it. “My goal is to constantly reference Kevyn Aucoin, Danessa [Myricks], Pat [McGrath], how they move with grace and intentionality,” she said in the video. “I am an artist; my driving force is to create and share it. My end goal is to teach and spread my knowledge.”
