The original launch marked the first time the brand had incorporated the now-signature detail, the waffle sole, an innovation that Bowerman ideated using a waffle machine in his kitchen in an attempt to improve grip for running (the appliance was a wedding present that was subsequently tainted by his non-food-related experiments). Wear tests coined the nickname the “Moon Shoe,” owing to the imprint that the tread left behind on tracks and trails, leading to the development of the Waffle Trainer, released in 1975, solidifying Nike’s role as a leading maker.
This commercial concept, which was a precursor to the Moon Shoe, became a bestseller. Some 50 years on, Simon Porte Jacquemus came across original prototypes in the Nike archive, and decided to revive it for a fashion customer, unveiled on his spring/summer 2025 runway. His low-to-the-ground, torpedo-shaped interpretation, made from nylon with a bobbled Nike Grind outsole, has been a hit since its debut, especially among city-dwelling celebrities, who whet the appetite for Nike’s (non-collab) mainline version, released earlier this year.
“Our original running innovation uniquely bridges timeless sport and style,” Thomasin Hummerstone, Nike Energy Footwear product lead, tells Vogue of converging the two worlds. As for what’s next for the Moon Shoe? “Expect elevated full-leather executions which bring a quieter sophistication, carrying the silhouette forward for year-round adoption.”
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